Vegetable Greenhouse at The Orchard.
Fast food has had its day in Beijing, but more and more people are realizing that that sort of food and the lifestyle it promotes leaves much to be desired. Welcome to the Slow Food movement. In fact, the slow movement started in 1986, but in recent years its popularity has soared; environmental degradation and people's hectic lifestyles have shown us that Slow Food is a way to eat and live which benefits our planet, our minds and our health.
At its roots, Slow Food is about sustainability. Clearly, tearing down forests in Africa to raise cattle whose meat is imported across oceans to reach plates worldwide is harmful to the environment at every step. In contrast, Slow Food focuses on local and seasonal foods. Naturally, organics are a key focus in slow food, keeping pesticides and chemical hormones out of the picture.
In a country whose name is synonymous with mass production, Slow Food stands out by virtue of its refusal to go big. Small-scale food recognizes and educates about the problems inherent in factory farms which range from quality problems to worker's rights issues. Yes, doing things on a smaller scale without chemicals to speed up the process is more expensive. When asked about the process of eating only self-produced vegetables, Ohad Tiktinsky from The Orchard says simply, "It's hard." The Schoolhouse's Wuyun Tana continues, "Small farms require more work than industrial farms [and] sustainable and organic foods cost more to produce... [That] is why it costs more than regular food." But Slow Food advocates believe that the cost in terms of money is more acceptable than a price paid by our health and the land we live on.
Who eats Slow Foods? Today, the Orchard's patrons are about half foreigners and half Chinese. As China develops, more and more Chinese people travel abroad, and can find solace in a restaurant that provides a western atmosphere while pioneering the western philosophy of Slow Food. Once a year, The Schoolhouse, located in Mutianyu, promotes Slow Food Saturday, a festival which helps people understand where their food comes from, how it's produced and by whom. Underlying every event in the festival is the idea that we have a responsibility to eat wisely, and understanding this can help us enjoy and appreciate every bite.
And how do Slow Foods taste? Natural foods have long been known to present a full and true taste. Slow Foods are usually cooked in a local culinary tradition, again reflecting local culture as well as ecosystems. This season, ingredients include tasty edibles like local trout, chestnuts and pumpkins. Beijing is lucky to have a few restaurant gems which support the Slow Food movement. These include The Orchard (Shunyi District), The Schoolhouse (Mutianyu Great Wall) and Mrs. Shanen's (Shunyi District). Even the posh Shangri-La Hotel offered a Slow Food meal this November. Slow Food may be slow, but like the tortoise racing the hare, every steady step compels it toward the finish line.
The Schoolhouse, Huairou
12 Mutianyu Village
慕田峪村12号
Phone: 86-10-6162-6506
The Orchard, Shunyi
Hegezhuang Village, Cuigezhuang Township,
崔各庄乡何各庄村
(Behind the Beijing Riviera and Quanfa Gardens)
Phone:139-1121-1965