Soviet kitsch

• Source: Global Times
• [11:10 January 18 2011]
• Comments

Harbin's Ice Festival goes over the top. Photos: Matthew Jukes

By Matthew Jukes

For all those who missed the opportunity to see the mighty Soviet Union in all its glory, fear not comrades, there still exists one little fraternity of the people in China's far northern city of Harbin.

The grubby, ice-slicked roads of Harbin provide insight into an age of communism from decades ago, the fires of industry bellow smoke in all directions, while faceless denizens of the revolution patrol its streets, features wrapped up against the subzero weather.

Dotted around town are old Russian architectural wonders, overlaid with kitsch Chinese paint and plaster, a faded reminder that this city used to belong to two generations under the great bear, first the traitors of the revolution in 1913, then to the soviet army, who took point when Japanese occupation ended after World War II. You may still catch a few Russian tourists wandering around, but the original population has been almost entirely "repatriated" since the handover to the PRC.

But despite Harbin's Russian ancestry, around this time of the year it's the city's famous ice festival, which begins on January 5 every year and lasts until after the Spring Festival, drawing crowds in their thousands, all seeking a glimpse of the infamous sculptures on display. 

Arrival by train from Beijing is relatively simple with the 8-hour-plus journey costing 200-500 yuan. The far more bourgeois option is to fly the two hours from Capital Airport, for an unpatriotic 600 yuan.

Once inside the city it becomes quickly apparent that lingerers will not survive: Blisteringly cold weather freezes any moisture in the air and the ice-slicked pavements are difficult to navigate. Locals show true comradely spirit by sharing taxis to and from destinations, and public buses run frequently until around 8 pm, when the cold enforces its own curfew. While it's aesthetically pleasing to see the half an inch of ice that forms on the inside of bus windows, it's a warning cry to those who suffer in low temperatures.

Perhaps the original Ice and Snow Festival began as a delicate affair, with several talented individuals who had managed to bend the ice to their will and make it dance under the lights for the enjoyment of visitors. Now the major event held on Sun Island in the north of the city rivals Disneyland, with a slightly grander fee (Cost of HK Disneyland, 300 yuan; trip to Harbin Ice festival, 330 yuan).