Herborist is a Chinese cosmetic brand spreading around the world. Photo: CFP

In May 2013, the Chinese cosmetic brand Herborist appeared on the shelves of the world-renowned Douglas chain of cosmetics stores, and its traditional Chinese elements immediately captured the attention of customers.

Herborist is a brand built up by Jahwa, one of the largest personal care companies in China.

All the brand's products are infused with Chinese herbs, using research and innovations by the company's own research team. Since its launch in 1998, the brand has experienced huge growth.

In 2004, sales of Herborist reached over 50 million yuan ($8.2 million), achieving profitability for the first time.

A significant milestone in moving into the overseas market was reached in 2008. Herborist products started to be sold in Sephora's store on the Champs-Elysees, the famous Parisian shopping street, marking a step into the European market. Nevertheless, it was not an easy process for Herborist. Although Jahwa pushed to be on Sephora's shelves for years, Sephora resisted.

As a top French brand and cosmetics chain, Sephora has to restrict the number of cosmetic brands displayed in its stores. Sephora was originally reluctant to let this Chinese brand enter its stores, claiming that the brand was not well-known in France.

In the end, it was the promise of Chinese herbs, the exclusive material in the cosmetics, that sparked interest of Sephora. Herborist was eventually able to squeeze in the window displays with other world top cosmetic brands.

Jahwa has long been famous in the Chinese market for its Chinese herb-orientated products. By the 1990s, the company has already established its reputation in China, with its Liushen Florida water. This product, created by their own research team, helped Jahwa win 60 percent of the Florida water market at that time. Following this success, they started exploring wider business opportunities for products with Chinese herbs.

In 1995, a Herborist research team was established. Soon they found that adopting contemporary technology to refine Chinese herbs helped their products' cosmetic efficacy.

Also in the same year, Herborist set its eyes not just on the China but also on the overseas market.

In order to achieve its goal, they determined they needed to brand their product as containing Chinese herbs, and emphasize its connection to Chinese culture.

In a previous media interview, Li Huiliang, director of the technology division of Jahwa, said that when they promote Chinese herbal cosmetics to the world, Chinese culture is a key selling point, in addition to scientific high technology and a good consumer experience.

"Acupuncture and massage are the two aspects of traditional Chinese medicine that were accepted by foreigners at the earliest stage, followed by Chinese herbs," he said. In May 2013, on its 15-year anniversary, Herborist entered the German market via its cooperation with the German cosmetic enterprise Douglas.

Currently, the brand can be seen in other European countries including Italy, Spain, and Poland, with sales increasing at 80 percent annually.