A taste of village life

By Yin Lu Source:Global Times Published: 2014-4-9 19:53:01

Tourists take photos under a centuries-old cypress tree on a terrace overlooking Lingshui village, Mentougou district. The village is one of more than a dozen protected in Beijing, but many others elsewhere in China have been demolished amid urbanization. Photo: IC



Cuandixia might be situated 90 kilometers northwest of downtown Beijing, but the tranquil village may as well be another world for weekend tourists eager to swap the urban hustle and bustle for ancient architecture and natural beauty. Nestled among mountains blooming in the vibrant hues of spring, Cuandixia's normal sleepy reputation was challenged during Qingming Festival over the weekend when busloads of visitors flocked to the historic village.

Beijing has 13 villages listed as Chinese traditional villages by the Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development due to their well-preserved, original architecture and village culture. These include Qianjuntai, Cuandixia and Liuliqu villages in Mentougou district; Changyucheng village in Changping district; and Shuiyu village in Fangshan district. A national survey in 2012 found only 12,000 traditional villages are left in China, or less than 2 percent of the country's total administrative villages, due to rampant demolition amid the country's rapid urbanization.

Beijing's protected villages attract a range of tourists throughout the year, including domestic and foreign tourists attracted by the sites' history and scenic surrounds that offer a change of pace from the chaotic metropolis. 

Homes built on terraces in Cuandixia village, Mentougou district. Photo: Courtesy of Beijing Cuanbai Scenic Area Management Center



Glimpse of a bygone era

June Yang, 34, first visited Cuandixia in 2012 on a spring hiking trip. The Chinese-Canadian teacher was impressed by the village's ancient architecture, but mostly savored the chance to "get out of the crowded, polluted city."

More than 70 courtyards and 600 houses built during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties in the villages have changed little in appearance and structure over the centuries.

"It's pretty rare to see well-preserved ancient buildings in their original form. A lot of things were destroyed during wars and the Cultural Revolution (1966-76). Most foreigners prefer sights in their original form showing old Chinese culture instead of sites that are rebuilt," Yang said.

Strolling up a road paved with green and gray stones and lined with courtyard houses, signs of Cuandixia's primitive past are visible through millstones, rollers, wells, temples and cracked brick walls bearing faded revolutionary slogans, such as "Weaponize ourselves with Maoism."

Elderly villagers gather outside their courtyards and in narrow alleyways each morning to chat between puffs from tobacco pipes, seemingly oblivious to camera-toting visitors training their lenses into their homes that offer a glimpse of a simpler era.

Hiking also led Yang to visit Mentougou villages Lingshui and Jieshi in April 2013. Lingshui's claim to fame was during the Qing Dynasty, when it was home to 22 scholars who passed the prestigious imperial examination and served as civil servants. A house that was home to a family of five scholars is a source of pride even today among villagers.

Another one of the must-see spots is Dragon King Temple next to the village's drama stage, where villagers used to pray for bountiful harvests and watch performances under the shade of centuries-old trees.

Villagers carry banners during a parade in Qianjuntai, Mentougou district. Photo: Li Hao/ GT



Searching for serenity

Last year Yang hiked four kilometers from Cuandixia to Baiyu in snow before making the mountainous journey from Lingshui to Jieshi. The latter trek took more than four hours and involved passing through prickly bushes and traversing slippery ground.

Many native Beijingers are aware of their city's famous villages, even if they haven't actually ventured out to them. The villages are also well-known by many domestic and foreign tourists, not to mention tourism agencies that include the hamlets on their travel itineraries.

American Dan DeMille visited Beijing for a week in April 2012 with his wife and friends. One of the highlights for the 35-year-old Massachusetts native was a one-day trip to Cuandixia and its surrounding villages.

As an experienced hiker, DeMille said the trail was "reasonably strenuous, but most folks would be able to handle it."

"Some short hikes led to some great little spots to reflect," he said. "The authenticity of an ancient village still preserved and functioning was very unique. It was great to see the ancient architecture with some neat features." 

DeMille especially enjoyed village food during his trip, which was arranged by his tour group. For around 300 yuan ($48), a group of 10 can feast on 10 dishes featuring locally milled grain, meat from village-raised livestock and wild vegetables picked from nearby mountains.

Ruins in Lingshui village, Mentougou district. Photo: Li Hao/ GT



Rich stories from village folk

Cuandixia's most impressive building is Jurenyuan, literally "courtyard of the imperial examination graduate," which today is home to a popular restaurant.

Zhou Liming, 39, grew up in Jurenyuan. In addition to being the restaurant's owner, he also claims to be a descendent of the residence's famous ancient scholar. Since opening his restaurant in 1995, Zhou has witnessed Cuandixia's rise from obscure village to tourist hot spot.

"We didn't attract many visitors from downtown back then. We used to be the poorest village in Beijing. Now, we usually serve about 200 diners for lunch each day," Zhou told Metropolitan from his kitchen as he prepared a local specialty: roasted goat legs.

Zhou proudly shows diners around the courtyard, explaining the stories behind unique architectural features including ornate carvings etched into door frames and oddly shaped stones out the front that he said represent "dignity and status."

Tourists aren't the only ones interested in Jurenyuan, either. Zhou has hosted architects eager to measure and study the courtyard, artists who paint its commanding views and antique enthusiasts.

Tourism, pop culture impact

In addition to upgrading transportation and accommodation facilities, many villages have sought to attract more tourists by preserving their cultural heritage, such as folk activities, village annals and other artifacts kept in local museums. These efforts have been bolstered by funding from local tourism and cultural authorities, but arguably the biggest helping hand has come from the entertainment industry.

Cuandixia has provided the backdrop to many modern films and TV shows, including The Warlords (2007) starring Jet Li. Lingshui shot to fame last year when Hunan Satellite TV's hit reality show Dad, Where Are We Going? shot its opening episode in the village.

Since the show's episode in Lingshui aired in October, the village has experienced a tourism boom fueled by fans of the program seeking to follow in the footsteps of their idols. Travel agencies haven't missed the chance to cash in either, promoting tourism packages that target families.

Lingshui's five homes that accommodated stars of Dad,Where Are We Going? have become main attractions in the village, with many visitors making a point to photograph each of the humble dwellings.

One of the home's owners, surnamed Liu, charges 5 yuan for each group of guests who tour the rooms. Although much of his classic furniture was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and his home is teetering on disrepair, Liu isn't worried. "The government will pay for my renovations," he said.

Dining, accommodation, guided tours and souvenir businesses are all booming in Lingshui. "This is Chinese-style tourism, whereby people flock to one popular place, take their photos and leave," said local tour guide Yu Zhenfeng. 

Even though many facilities have been upgraded in Beijing's ancient villages, not all amenities have modern comforts. Both Yang and DeMille noted that toilets, which are often in large, unlit blocks with undivided stalls, need to be improved.

Another point tourists should heed is the golden rule of always being wary of scams, even in villages like Cuandixia that might seem innocent and honest on the surface.

After failing to find a public bus to the village despite asking more than a dozen people for directions, Yang went against her instincts and took a ride with a stranger hustling tourists near Pingguoyuan Subway Station on Line 1. The driver, a villager from Cuandixia, tried to overcharge Yang for the one-and-a-half-hour trip.

"He also forced us to stay at his cousin's house overnight. We agreed because we needed a ride back to Beijing. He constantly tried to scam more money out of us," she recalled.

Beijing's top ancient villages

Best for architecture

Where: Cuandixia village, Zhaitang town, Mentougou district

See: Well-preserved courtyards and other facilities from the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Getting there: Take a car or bus from Pingguoyuan Station (Subway Line 1) for about one-and-a-half hours. Cost should be between 50 yuan to 100 yuan for a single trip.

Best for TV fans

Where: Lingshui village, Zhaitang town, Mentougou district

See: Sets for TV shows and movies, ancient architecture and Lingquan Temple, Beijing's oldest temple first built in the Han Dynasty (206BC-AD220).

Getting there: Drive west along National Highway 109 and follow the signs.

Best for live shows

Where: Shuiyu village, Nanjiao township, Fangshan district

See: The well-known "three wonders" - Ancient homes, 128 stone rollers and flag shows.

Getting there: Take the bus Fang 23 or drive west on National Highway 108 and follow the signs.

Best for food

Where: Liugou Village, Yanqing county

See: Ancient architecture and country life. Dine on the village's famous water tofu available at all its hole-in-the-wall restaurants.

Getting there: Take the bus line of Y 8.



Posted in: Metro Beijing

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