By Craig Zabransky

In a city famous for dumplings and seasonal crabs, more adventurous Shanghai cuisine awaits those who are interested. My first meal after 18 hours of flights (and essentially a 36-hour time change) from New York was a late dinner with my new co-workers. One of my Western partners, who arrived a few days earlier, had planned to brief me on etiquette and expectations, but I missed it because of delays in my travel. Yet, what I immediately learned is that Chinese food is nothing like the takeout that I grew up with.

My warm reception started with a bowl of soup. Simple? No. Both shock and surprise came over me when I noticed a chicken foot on the ladle and then in my bowl. Not only difficult to swallow, but also difficult to chew. A difficult beginning.

As a consultant, I expect (and sell) managed change. I had expected to investigate and then ease into Chinese cuisine after I arrived in Shanghai. Not the case. My first weekend, a friend invited to me to join her for a Shanghai specialty - drunken shrimp. Shrimp, I thought, I can do that.

We arrived and she selected the live fish and shrimp from the freshwater tanks. We inspected them and they were then shuttled off to the kitchen to be prepared. Dishes and side dishes came at intervals I could not completely grasp; yet I always had a small discard plate for any bones or inedible bites. But when the shrimp came, I immediately noticed a difference. The dish had a lid, a clear glass lid. No other dishes had lids. None.

Then it bounced. Then again. I looked closer and realized the shrimp were still alive. My friend, only then, informed me that the shrimp need to swim in the sauce and get drunk from the alcohol. Only then do we eat. Live shrimp? Live drunk shrimp? Seriously?

After the shrimp settled down, or perhaps passed out, I picked one with my chopsticks half expecting it to squirm like live bait. I dunked it once for good measure (and assurance) and slowly took my first bite, crunching through the shell. Scared and concerned I eventually opened my eyes and savored the taste. Good. I took another bite, then another shrimp, a third. Actually delicious.

That night changed my view toward Shanghai cuisine. From then on, I started to enjoy more and more dishes, if not delicacies, prepared in the city. Stomach, ears, tongue - you name it - I've tried it. And well, if you don't like it, there is always a discard plate. Of course, you can also follow the shrimp's example and swim in some alcohol. It eases the tension.