By Shen Sijia

The Chinese appetite for breads and pastries is a relatively recent phenomenon, and one that French bakers Meert are eager to indulge. Hailing from the city of Lille in northern France the company has been supplying royalty and high society with the finest waffles, pastries, marshmallows and nougats, for nigh on 250 years.

And now, as part of the French Expo cuisine season, Meert are in Shanghai bringing the best in Gallic flavors to local gastronomes. "That's why we are here. We represent the very best and we're an important part of the culture of Lille," says 23-year-old head waiter Victor Delpierre. It's an exalted opinion even Charles De Gaulle would have agreed with. The wartime French president, who was born in Lille, often visited the Meert Patisserie and Tea Room to buy sweets for visiting dignitaries.

And with Meert based at the Lille Pavilion in an ancient Taoist temple off Nanjing Road East, pastry lovers won't have to fork out 160 yuan for an Expo ticket just to try one. Inside, the company has attempted a faithful recreation of its Lille dining room complete with chandeliers and gold trimmings. And similarly for the dishes, the chefs have followed the French menu as closely as possible. "In Shanghai, we've slightly modified the flour and sugar levels but tried to keep the same taste and flavor," says Victor.

The kitchen's piece de resistance, however, is the famous vanilla-laced, sumptuously rich Madagascar waffle, created from a traditional recipe. Cooked between two waffle irons and finished off with a distinguishing logo-seal, it is then wrapped in silver foil which will keep it fresh for up to a week, according to staff. This particular waffle uses less sugar than in France, but should still appeal to the sweet tooth of the Shanghainese.

Besides afternoon tea, the Meert also offers a six-course dinner for 250 yuan (drinks not included). The menu changes daily depending on what is available at local markets. "It makes for a nice surprise," adds Victor. "You turn up to the restaurant not knowing what will be in store for you."

Besides cuisine, the pavilion will also be showcasing the city's visual arts, fashion and technology.

Information

The Lille Pavilion will be open until July 15 (Monday to Thursday-12pm to 6pm, Friday to Sunday-12pm to 10pm).

Add: Hongmiao Gallery, No 50 Shitan Lane, 496 Nanjing Road East.