A wax statue showing the oiled-paper umbrella making process is displayed at the China Umbrella Museum in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province. Photo: IC

While more and more traditional handicraft techniques are vanishing as the rapid advancement of modern technology continues, some people are trying to retain or extend the life of this traditional heritage. Among these people stand young fashion designer Zhang Lei and veteran craftsman Fang Jinquan. For years the two have worked together to bring the failing handicraft art of traditional oiled-paper umbrellas from Yuhang county, Zhejiang Province, back to life.

Restoration of a skill

Listed as one of Zhejiang Province's intangible cultural heritages since 2007, Yuhang paper umbrellas are a handcrafted item with a history going back over 230 years. Created through delicate handcraft production, these accessories used to be a popular souvenir for people traveling to Yuhang.

The making of these umbrellas is a tradition passed down through the generations to the 70-year-old Fang Jinquan. His father, originally from Shaoxing, Zhejiang, began learning the handicraft art when he was just a 12-year-old refugee in Hangzhou during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression (1937-45). After the war, Fang's family became famous for their umbrella frames with numerous umbrella shops making purchases from the family.

Like his father, Fang also started to learn the handicraft at the age of 12. At the time, a factory had been established to produce the paper umbrellas. At its peak around 1962, the factory was producing 500,000 umbrellas a year. However, this glorious age ended with the appearance of machine-made metal frame umbrellas.

By the 1970s, the factory had completely shut down and was later converted into a clothing factory when Fang was 23. At this point Fang could only walk away from the family business to become a security guard for the factory. It was not until 2006 that he began making frames once again.

This opportunity came about when Liu Youquan, an owner of a coating production factory in Pingyao township, Yuhang, decided to revitalize the traditional art. In 2006, he gathered several experienced umbrella makers together, including Fang, to revitalize the handicraft.

Although 40 years had passed, Fang's skill in making frames still hadn't left him. A traditional craft involving over 70 steps, from making the frame to pasting the paper, the creation of a single umbrella is a group effort as it is near impossible for one individual to master all of the necessary steps.

Despite this complicated process, a traditional paper umbrella sells for only around 100 to 200 yuan ($15-30), which falls far short of the cost of labor. And even at that low price the umbrellas usually don't sell very well - a situation that has Fang worried.

Old meets new

Fashion designer Zhang Lei held an exhibition named From West Lake to Milan at Milan Design Week last month. Since an encounter with traditional Yuhang paper umbrellas four years ago, Zhang began taking inspiration from traditional Chinese handicraft arts. As such, his exhibition utilized five traditional materials from Hangzhou, such as bamboo, silk and paper in his new designs.

To better understand this traditional process Zhang spent two months working with Fang and other paper umbrella craftsmen in 2010-11. They examined the 70 plus step processes in an attempt to see what techniques, materials and inspiration could be used in the designs of today.

During Milan Design Week in April 2011, Zhang's umbrella and chair designs combining traditional handicraft techniques and materials used to make paper umbrellas with avant-garde design concepts won him the Red Dot Award for design. 

As a direct effect of the award, a British company wanted to order 200 paper umbrellas from Liu. However, Fang realized that they wouldn't be able to fulfill such a large order due to lack of labor. "Handcraft takes time. During our initial attempt, we only managed to produce 100 umbrellas after over a month's work," Fang told Zhejiang Daily.

Although it might be impossible for the Yuhang paper umbrella to regain its previous glory, the sensation stirred in Milan and the attention Zhang and his designs have drawn from society have made Fang more optimistic about the art's future.

Fang has been cooperating with various TV programs, demonstrating how to produce the traditional umbrella, while also helping several college students to write their thesis papers on the umbrella.

Although there may not be anybody to carry on the skill in the future, Fang finds comfort in the fact it will still live on in digital images and fashion designs.