These works are highly detailed and involve ultra fine threads.Photo: Yang Hui/GT

 

These works are highly detailed and involve ultra fine threads. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

Gu embroidery, which originated in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), is one of the most remarkable of the Chinese embroidery styles. It was created by the women of the Gu family in Songjiang and the works became highly prized among scholars and artists of the day.

Today there is a team of nine women at the Songjiang Gu Embroidery Research Institute who are continuing the tradition. The youngest of the team is 29 but, like the others, has amassed at least 10 years experience in this highly delicate needlework.

The work is painstaking and many suffer back problems. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

It takes more than 10 years to be a qualified Gu embroiderer and 20 years or longer to be a master. Gu embroidery is unique in that it reproduces the artworks of masters from different dynasties. To be a successful Gu embroiderer you have to be an accomplished painter and calligrapher. A Gu embroiderer is involved with every facet of her work, from selecting materials, drawing the outline, choosing the threads from the nearly 1,000 colors available, sewing and then fitting the work in a frame. It can take years to complete one of these exquisite works. The institute's nine embroiderers spent three years reproducing 16 paintings by Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766) the Italian missionary and court painter.

Some of the exquisite embroidery created by the Songjiang team. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

In 2006 Gu embroidery was listed among the first group of the State-level intangible cultural heritages. However only a few collectors buy the works and at present the embroidery is largely undervalued. This means that embroiderers do not earn good money and this is affecting the future of the art form as it has been hard to attract new talent willing to continue the tradition.

Embroiderer Zhuang Meiquan carefully draws an outline for a new piece. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

On a break these artists practice yoga. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

 

Embroiderer Zhang Limin, 29, earns less than 5,000 yuan ($799.42) a month and knows her skill and work is probably worth more. When she started to learn the art, there were 20 people in her class but only eight have continued.

Every day Zhang has to hunch over her work holding the same pose for five or six hours at a time. Gu embroiderers often suffer back problems and Zhang will not let her child become an embroiderer.

These embroiderers are accomplished calligraphers and artists as well. Photo: Yang Hui/GT

An administrator surnamed Zhou said the institute has been trying to improve the working conditions and raise the salaries. Professors from art academies are now involved in training the women and the embroiderers are also being given yoga classes to help them physically.

Zhou hopes that Gu embroidery will become better known and appreciated by more people. Recently one piece of embroidery from the institute fetched 510,000 yuan at auction.

Global Times