By Craig Lennox

In my time in China, I've become increasingly less surprised by the unique and strange delicacies ordered during banquets and business dinners. At one recent meal, the waitress announced each dish as it arrived, while our host eagerly translated. Then she appeared with a plate of what looked like rows of little deep-fried fingers, covered in chopped chilies and fresh herbs. These, the host cheerfully announced, were duck tongues. Surely not?

The idea that ducks even had tongues wasn't something I had ever pondered, but if the dish was to be believed, they do, and apparently they can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, even deep-fried. "Okay, they're deep fried in batter," I thought. "Just imagine that they're large chicken nuggets, and you can do this."

Chopsticks at the ready, I gripped one of the little suckers, dipped it in an accompanying dish of salt-and-pepper seasoning and bravely chomped down. I had expected tough, muscley meat with a strange flavor, but was completely wrong. After the gentle crunch of the batter crust, I found the meat to be surprisingly tender, juicy and packed with rich ducky flavor.

Little pockets of fat hide in the fleshy layers, providing a juicy burst as the tongue is chewed. Along the middle of the two-inch-long tongues is a bone that takes some practice in stripping of its meat and cartilage, but sitting around a table with Chinese friends, seasoned, experts of tongue-eating, the advice given was to go slow and enjoy the experience. Using your own tongue, feel along the bone and maneuver the flesh and cartilage off of it, slowly slipping the naked bone out of your mouth and onto your plate, leaving a mouth filled with two tongues, one your own, the other to enjoy. Easier said than done!

Admittedly, initially I was concerned that the ducks in question may have had bad breath, to the bemusement of my dining companions. Also, the idea of where that tongue had been didn't fill me with excitement. And now that I had eaten them, would it be possible to say that I had gotten romantically involved with a duck, since after all, I did have its tongue in my mouth?

One by one, they disappeared off the plate, and although my skills felt less than polite, I did manage to keep up with the others in ensuring I got my share of tongue.

These pesky little snacks are cooked in a variety of ways. Since first trying them, I have seen them steamed with dipping sauces, braised and smothered in gloop and also fried up with a selection of vegetables, simple sauces and dressings. But I am definitely glad that I first experienced ducks tongues in batter, as this disguise allowed me to enjoy yet another surprisingly tasty Chinese delicacy I might not otherwise have been brave enough to try.

stereobeijing@gmail.com