Many of you drink Nongfu Spring water, but very few probably know much about its source, Qiandao Lake.

Located in the west of Hangzhou, in Chun'an county, Qiandao Lake is a five-star scenic spot that is 100 times the size of the more famous West Lake in Hangzhou, covering an area of more than 500 square kilometers.

In Chinese, Qiandao means "1,000 islands," named for the large number of islands that were created in 1959 as the result of the construction of Xin'an River hydroelectric power station.

The most popular islands are Meifeng Island, Santan Island, Shenlong Island, and Monkey Island.

Know your options

Boating is the way most visitors choose to explore the lake. Boats leave from the tourist pier and take you to several islands on a tight schedule.

However, for travelers who prefer to explore at their own pace, the boat is not the best option.

Anita, a friend of mine who had taken one of the Qiandao Lake boat trips, warned me that taking one would mean being stuck on the boat for hours, cold and bored.

Another downside is the extortionate cost of taking the boat, at over 200 yuan ($30.62) per person. Paying for the "privilege" of being herded onto a boat and then hurriedly shipped between designated scenic spots with the masses did not appeal to me.

Crowd-averse travelers on a budget, though, are finding a new approach to explore the islands - by taking a road trip.

We set off from Qiandao Lake county, where we had spent the previous night. It is the main local habitation, and is surrounded by water on three sides, with mountains on the fourth - hence it being referred to as a "lake within hills and a hill within lakes."

The county was also the first to be named the "most livable city in China" by the China City International Association.

We decided to drive along the southeast shore of Qiandao Lake to Xin'an river and came back to Qiandao Lake county.

Following the GPS, we tried to find a route that kept us as close to the water as possible. All the way, I kept my eyes on the screen of my smartphone and felt like an explorer charting a new continent.

There are many island not highlighted on the travel guide that are accessible to cars via bridges.

On one nameless island we found several aquaculture centers, where local people farmed pearls, which can be purchased as souvenirs.

Some islands are inhabited by local people. Many of them are elderly. I guess the younger people have left for job opportunities in the cities. Those people who remain are curious about visitors.

Other islands are not developed, as we expected. As we three were the only visitors on such islands, we felt like we'd claimed our own land. The winding path and seductive scenery brought to mind The Secret Garden.

Located in the west of Hangzhou, in Chun'an county, Qiandao Lake is a five-star scenic spot that is well worth visiting. Photos: Qi Xijia/GT

Dam fine time

Finally, we reached Xin'an River and the hydropower station, which was built in 1957 to provide power and control flooding in the area.

Before its construction, and the creation of the islands, the lake used to be called Xin'an River Reservoir.

For 38 yuan, you can take the lift to the top of the dam. To make way for the hydropower station, 290,000 residents were relocated and two ancient cities were submerged.

In a project organized by Chun'an county government and broadcast by CCTV in 2012, divers took a closer look at one of the ancient cities.

Divers found the gate to the city some 30 meters below the surface of the lake, as well as streets and delicate engravings.

Fish dish

We returned to Qiandao Lake county having spent some 6 hours on the road, and covering just a small portion of the lake's bank.

There we dined on the area's famed fish head soup. The organic fish are raised in the waters of Qiandao Lake and can grow to over 5 kilograms.

In the restaurant they cluster in a tiny glass fish tank. When a customer places an order, the waiter will kill a fish and weigh it. A kilogram of fish head cost 116 yuan.

Despite this high price, it is well worth trying. Because of the good quality of the water, the meat is juicy, firm and not too fishy. The soup is also well seasoned. The rest of the fish can be eaten as fillet, or used to make fish balls.

For those who don't drive, my tip is to take public transportation to Qiandao Lake and then rent a bicycle.

To get to Qiandao Lake from Shanghai, you can take a bullet train to Hangzhou, then take a bus to Chun'an county from Hangzhou West Bus Station; or take a direct bus from Shanghai to Chun'an county.